Spring & Easter sensations in Liguria, Italy
It is no secret Italians love their food and Easter is no exception to the rule. The region of Liguria takes this time of year very seriously; solemn processions and masses are abundant in the three days leading up to Easter Sunday and the banquets and celebrations quickly follow with equal gusto.
Visitors to Liguria during the Easter period will have the opportunity to feast on the unique foods and festivities which form important parts of Ligurian culture. Pasqualina (Easter Pie) is served during the lead up to Easter in homes and restaurants throughout Liguria, it boasts a rich and full flavour made with eggs and shredded artichokes.
Traditionally meat is not eaten during lent, this means Easter Sunday is an opportunity to indulge and bring those forty days to a gratifying end. Banquets vary from place to place, restaurant to restaurant and family to family.
For a typical Easter Sunday meal visitors can expect to start with an array of antipasto (sliced Salami, Bresaola, Prosciutto, Coppa and Arista) followed by Ravioli al tocco di carne (mini dumplings filled both with meat and vegetables with a very ancient receipt of meat tomato sauce). A main course of roast lamb with wild rosemary, garlic potatoes, fried vegetables (zucchini, eggplants and artichokes) and a special salad made with hard-boiled eggs is then served.
It does not stop there; Colomba Pasquale (Easter Dove) is an Easter counterpart of the two well known Italian Christmas cake, Panettone. This cake is made in a very similar way to Panettone, omitting the sultanas, then fashioned into dove shapes and topped with coarse sugar and almonds before baking; delicious. In common with the UK, chocolate Easter eggs are given as treats and gifts, usually concealing small Easter themed gifts. The Easter Sunday meal in its entirety is a long withstanding ritual of the Italians, fuelled by devotion to religion and each other the meal still symbolises many of the traditional messages Easter represents.
Easter Monday, also known as Little Easter (Pasquetta) is an official Italian holiday which is usually spent outside in the fresh spring weather with family and friends. Walks in and around the countryside are popular with locals and visitors alike. It is not uncommon to find cars parked along the roadside with groups picnicking nearby. Make the most of Cinque Terre National Park by taking your walking boots and picnic apparatus; nearby village shops stock plentiful amounts of locally produced bread, cheese, ham, sausage, pesto, olive oil and wine to be enjoyed over the picturesque landscape.
Come the second Sunday of May (9th), the annual food festivity Sagra del Pesce (Fish Feast) takes place in Camogli, a town about thirty minutes east of Genova. In a display of kindness, the fishermen abandon their nets for the day in exchange for sieves, flour, oil and a giant five metre saucepan!
Excitable local children are on hand to help share out the freshly caught fish, which is fried and offered free to the flocking crowds or locals and visitors. Arrive at least the day before if you intend to drive as there is no private transport allowed in Camogli during the festival. Regular coastal train (Trenitalia) services stop at Camogli and ferry services operate from various ports including Portofino. The festival attracts thousands of both visitors and locals so get there early to find a good spot!
Camogli offers plenty of friendly boutique hotels to choose from, notably Hotel Casmona which is housed in a traditional 19th century Ligurian villa overlooking the Camogli promenade. Hailed as a place to relax and escape from everyday responsibilities, Hotel Casmona has nineteen sea view rooms to make waking up one of the best parts of the day. Prices at Easter start from €90 per night for a double room, casmona.com.
One of Liguria’s culinary charms for all times of year is Stella Maris restaurant, specailising in freshly caught fish and traditional Italian dishes, it is found tucked away on top of the San Rocco hillside with stunning views over Golfo Paradiso - stellamaris.cc. Gli Ulivi, another restaurant gem can be found perched high above Riomaggiore on the cliffs of Cinque Terre National Park. The menu consists of ten local dishes which change everyday depending on what is fresh and available, one of the specialities being fresh fish caught in the morning and served almost straight from the sea.
Spending Easter in the city of Genova is just as fascinating. Flocks of people crowd the streets during religious processions on the Thursday, Friday and Saturday before celebrating Easter Sunday. Statues of Mary and Jesus are paraded to and from churches whilst the streets are laden with palm and olive branches.
The Bentley Hotel offers five star treatment in Genova’s buzzing city centre, complete with spa and wellness centre The Bentley makes a perfect base to explore the nooks and crannies of Genoa city whilst knowing you can return to utter relaxation. Alternatively, Hotel Loconda di Palazzo Cicala is an ultramodern and contemporary hotel boasting elegant rooms and can be found in Genova’s historic centre a stones throw from Piazza San Lorenzo, with easy access to the city’s many historic churches and art galleries including the St Lorenzo Cathedral.
See if you can find The House of Cristoforo Colombo which hosts a collection of ancient items and documents relating to explorer Christopher Columbus. The San Matteo (St. Matthew) church is also worth an investigation; it was built in 1125 and has a very unusual black and white facade with a striking byzantine mosaic over the door, additional Easter decorations can only add to its splendour.
Easter weekend rates at The Bentley start from €188 for a double room, there is also a 15% on-line discount available for a non-refundable rate (€160), thi-hotels.com. Hotel Loconda di Palazzo Cicala has availability over Easter weekend with double room rates starting at €190 per night, visit hotels-genoa.co.uk for more information.
British Airways flies regularly from London Gatwick to Genova, prices starting from £105 return in February (£150 April), britishairways.com. Alternatively Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Genova on a daily basis, prices starting from £40 in February (£140 April), ryanair.com.
For further information on Liguria, visit turismoinliguria.it.
