Acclaimed chef cooks up a taste of sea life

The seaside town of Portsoy is proud of its fishing heritage and every July the town pays homage to its maritime roots by hosting the Scottish Traditional Boat Festival.

Renowned for its culinary refinement and varied fares in seafood, the north east of Scotland is an area with a palette of tastes from the freshest salmon and haddock to such tender delicacies as scallops and crab.

It is many years since Portsoy was a booming fishing port but it is proud to play its part in promoting the fine fish products for which the Moray Firth coast is still world renowned.

In 1825 Portsoy built an additional harbour to accommodate the fishing trade, which at its peek saw a fleet of 57 boats leave the small town on the herring trail. Now, Portsoy’s two harbours are more accustomed to pleasure craft although there are still small creel boats catching lobster and crab. The Scottish Traditional Boat Festival celebrates the fishing heritage of the town, offering a festival for all the senses with beautiful boats, great music, song and dance, the delightful spectacle of traditional seafaring crafts and of course, great food and drink.

Critically acclaimed Scottish chef Sue Lawrence has created recipes to commemorate the event using all the Portsoy coast has to offer. The salmon, haddock, crab and scallops are all caught locally and Sue has used these to epitomise the flavour of the north east.

As Sue says, “Fish is such a versatile dish and this area produces some of the finest seafood to work with. Sourcing the best ingredients is key to making a delicious meal and the north east coast is plentiful in culinary delights. The combination of textures and tastes in these dishes enhances the freshness of the fish and excites the palette.”


Roast Salmon with a herby oatmeal crust
(serves 4)

This is a very simple yet tasty recipe of succulent, moist salmon underneath a delicious crust of herby oatmeal. Sue likes to use a mixture of half pinhead and half medium oatmeal, but if you only have one or the other, that is fine; coarse or rough oatmeal is also good, but fine oatmeal will not give such a good crunchy texture.

Serve with couscous that you have dressed with olive oil, lemon juice and freshly chopped mint.

4 salmon fillets (preferably middle-cut), skinned, pin bones removed
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil + extra to brush
85g /3 oz oatmeal
The zest of 1 large lemon
3 tbsp freshly chopped herbs (parsley / mint / chervil)

1. Brush the salmon all over with oil.

2. Combine the remaining ingredients, season with salt and pepper and place on a plate. Dip the (rounded) surface of each fillet into the mixture, then place on an oiled baking sheet.

3. Place on the top shelf of a preheated oven (220C / 425F / Gas 7) for about 10 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked: test by inserting the tip of a sharp knife into the centre.


Smoked haddock with bacon and roasted cherry tomatoes
(Serves 2)

The simplicity of this recipe belies its fabulous flavours. Smoked haddock wrapped in bacon and served with roasted cherry tomatoes not only looks gorgeous, but the taste is superb - a true flavour of Scotland.

Serve with a green salad and good bread.

2 undyed smoked haddock fillets, skinned
4 rashers dry-cure smoked back bacon
Olive oil
4 sprigs of cherry tomatoes on the vine

1. Roll the fish so the thin ends are tucked underneath to make a neat little parcel. Wrap the bacon around, tucking the ends underneath.

2. Place on lightly oiled baking sheet. Place the tomatoes around the fish then season these with sea salt and pepper; only season the fish parcel with pepper as the smoked fish will be salty enough. Drizzle all over with oil.

3. Place the baking sheet near the top of a preheated oven (230C / 450F / Gas8) for 10 - 15 minutes or until the fish is just cooked and the skins of the tomatoes starts to split. Using a fish slice, transfer the fish to warm serving plates, place the tomatoes on top then pour over the pan juices.


Crab Tart with crème fraiche and watercress
(Serves 6)

This tart is good served warm or cold but never either piping hot or straight from the fridge. Make the pastry in advance if you can but if time is short, place the pastry-lined tin in the freezer for half an hour, instead of chilling overnight, before blind-baking. This sets the pastry.

Serve warm or cold with a watercress and chicory salad.

Pastry
190g /6½ oz plain flour, sifted
25g /1 oz finely grated parmesan cheese
125g /4½ oz unsalted butter, diced
1 large free-range egg, beaten

Filling
25g / 1 oz freshly grated parmesan cheese
450g / 1 lb crabmeat (mainly white meat)
85g / 3 oz watercress, chopped
3 large free-range eggs, lightly beaten
The grated zest of 1 lemon
200 ml / 7 fl oz crème fraiche

1. For the pastry, place the flour, cheese and butter in a food processor with a pinch of salt. Process briefly then, with the machine running, add the egg. Bring together with your hands then cling wrap and chill for half an hour or so.

2. Then roll out to fit a deep, 23cm / 9” tart tin, prick all over and chill well - preferably overnight. Fill with foil and baking beans and bake blind at 190C / 375F / Gas 5 for 15 minutes then remove the foil and cook for a further 5 - 10 minutes until just cooked.

3. Remove and sprinkle the parmesan cheese over the base while still hot. Allow to cool.

4.Stir the crab and watercress together then add the remaining ingredients, seasoning with plenty of salt and pepper (taste it if you can bear to, to ensure you have just enough seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if necessary) and pour into the pastry case.

5. Bake for 40 - 45 minutes, until set and tinged with golden brown.


Seared Scallops with pea and mint mash
(serves 4)

To my mind, there is little to rival a dish of locally caught scallops in terms of taste; served as they are here with a minty pea mash, they become even more memorable. They also look pretty as a picture!

Serve with plenty of crusty baguette.

12 plump fresh scallops
Olive oil
1 kg / 2lb 4 oz floury potatoes
250 g / 9 oz peas (fresh or frozen)
100 g / 3½ oz butter, softened
2 tbsp fresh mint leaves + mint sprigs, to garnish

1. If the scallops are very thick, separate the white scallop muscle from the orange coral: the coral cooks more quickly and tends to burst and splatter all over your cooker if they are in a hot pan for too long. Otherwise, leave whole. Marinate them in a little olive oil and set aside for at least 20 minutes.

2. Peel and chop the potatoes, cook in salted water until tender. Meanwhile cook the peas until just done - but still bright green. Drain, place in a blender or food processor with half the butter. Process until it is a smooth purée, adding the mint leaves towards the end.

3. Drain and thoroughly dry the potatoes then mash with the remaining butter. Add the pea purée and plenty of salt and pepper to taste.

4. Heat a heavy frying pan to very hot. Add the white scallop muscles (or whole scallops) and sear on one side, seasoning, for 1 minute then turn and add the corals. Cook over a high heat for a further 1 - 1½ minutes, or until just cooked.

5. To serve, place a mound of pea mash on warm plates and top with the scallops and coral. Garnish with fresh mint.


For more information about the Scottish Traditional Boat Festival visit scottishtraditionalboatfestival.co.uk.

The Scottish Traditional Boat Festival is supported by VisitScotland and Event Scotland as part of the Homecoming Scotland 2009 initiative.