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A corner of Lyon in South Kensington

1st July 2008 Print
A corner of Lyon in South Kensington Ambassade de l’Ile is the London debut of two Michelin-starred chef Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex, which opens its doors to the public at the beginning of July. This former personal chef to Christina Onassis is, as yet, relatively unknown outside the gastronomic city of Lyon.

Jean-Christophe’s Lyonnais restaurant - l’Auberge de l’Ile – is situated on Ile Barbe, a tiny islet in the middle of the Saône River. He has taken the corner site at 117/119 Old Brompton Road – a building steeped in restaurant heritage - which has been completely refurbished. As well as a restaurant, it is the UK ‘embassy’ for l’Ile Barbe, which declared itself “an independent and sovereign state” in 1977, and JCAA is its honorary governor.

The 40 cover restaurant will be serving contemporary French food, based on traditional styles and values. “There is a wide range between The Fat Duck, on one end of the scale, and The Waterside Inn at the other, but they are equally good.” Says Jean-Christophe (JC). “Our roots are in classical French cooking, but it is presented with a modern slant. “ The menu will have a distinct Lyonnais theme – as at l’Auberge de l’Ile.

Menu
There is an a la carte menu featuring many of JC’s signature dishes from Lyon, as well as set menus (£65 for five courses, and £90 for seven courses, both including sweets and desserts). These will change monthly in order to use top quality produce at its seasonal peak. Also available is a set lunch (£30 for three courses) which will change weekly. There is also an option to augment the set lunch with two glasses of wine, coffee and mineral water for a further £12.

Signature dishes include: Omble Chevalier (a delicate fish from Alpine lakes) with its Crispy Skin and a butter foam ; Delicate poached Foie Gras, with a Morel emulsion, and asparagus tips; Warm Scallop à la Nage with a herb Chantilly and Caviar and desserts include Liquorice Ice Cream with a Gingerbread Cone.

Wines
An extensive wine list, comprising in excess of 500 bins, includes a selection of fine wines from JC’s Lyon cellar (ingeniously stored and displayed along two walls of the private dining room inside a glass corridor). A wide range of affordable house wines, selected to complement the menu and appeal to the local market, offers something for all tastes and budgets. A comprehensive range of wines is also available by the glass. The list majors on European wines, but also includes a fair selection from the New World. Prices range from £22 for a bottle of house wine to over £5,000 for a magnum of fine wine.

The Building
Ambassade de l’Ile is arranged over two floors, and in addition to the main dining areas, has a private dining room with a capacity of 12 and a Chef’s table which seats six. Near the entrance there is a circular Host’s table, seating 8 to ten, where diners can eat in a convivial, but more communal ambience.

The striking contemporary décor by Lyon-based interior designer Philippe Magnin du Sauzey is based on the colours of the flag of Ile Barbe: purple and white. Walls are mirrored, glass, upholstered in white leather panels or painted dark purple. A complete refurbishment was part of the £2.2 million investment in the building – originally a library and previously home to Chanterelle Bistro, Shaw’s and latterly Lundum’s.

The Team
Jean-Christophe heads a brigade of 12 including sous chefs Armand Sablon (2007 Roux Scholar) and Sylvain Bouget-Lavinge (Midlands Young Chef 2001). Pascal Molinès, MOF and former World Pastry Champion is in charge of pastry. General manager is Olivier Duprez (also GM of l’Auberge de l’Ile), restaurant director is Frederic Claude and Caroline Marinelli is restaurant manager. Sommelier is Jacques Varet.

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A corner of Lyon in South Kensington