The new Beaujolais is not nouveau

On 20 November, we will see the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau in France and across the world. But this year, Beaujolais winemakers are asking British wine drinkers to take a new – not Nouveau – look at Beaujolais to discover that there is more to the region than these primeur wines. Beaujolais runs and Nouveau parties were once the height of fashion, but a trendy new wine to have in your glass this winter is one of the Beaujolais Crus*.

As the nights grow darker and longer, people across the country are settling down in front of the fire with a glass of a juicy Cru as the perfect match to their evening meal. Sublime served gently chilled, these lighter bodied red wines have a flirty, fruity aroma and an appetising acidity followed by a refreshing rush in the mouth – a touch of summer in the darkness of winter.

Beaujolais reds are all made from 100% Gamay grape, yet there is so much variety in the 10 Crus. Here is the lowdown on this top 10:

Brouilly – this is the largest of the Beaujolais Crus, where the vineyards flank the volcanic Mount Brouilly. The area produces some of the most full-bodied of Beaujolais wines – deep, ruby red, and full of fruit aromas. As a result, Brouilly is the business with those meats that like a bit of fruit with them such as lamb and pork.

Chénas – this is the smallest area of the Beaujolais Crus and the ancient oak forests seems to give this wine an almost woody flavour with floral notes and a velvety texture. A cracker with strong cheese.

Chiroubles – some say this is the archetypical Beaujolais and certainly, geographically, it’s the highest. Light and genuinely refreshing with aromas of violets, peonies and lily of the valley – it is lovely with roast chicken.

Côte de Brouilly – as its name suggests (‘côte’ simply means slope or hill), the Côte de Brouilly vines are on the granite slopes of Mount Brouilly. A wonderful deep purple colour, you can really smell the grapes in this one. The pâté partner.

Fleurie – not only a contender for the prettiest name in wine, Fleurie also does just what it says on the bottle – beautifully gentle wines which always deliver a fabulous floral perfume. Lamb and chicken casseroles are the partners for this most feminine of Beaujolais. And don’t let anyone call you a prawn for ordering Fleurie with shellfish – it’s simply wonderful.

Juliénas – this Cru uses its power with a light touch. The intensely ruby red wine has real backbone but has heady notes of peaches and flowering meadows. It’s the vin to drink with the coq.

Morgon – the wines produced around the commune of Villié-Morgon are amongst the most dense and structured of Beaujolais and therefore one of the most suitable for ageing. Because the local soil is so challenging, the grapes create a full-bodied wine, garnet red, rich and intense. Its heavy fruitiness makes it a dark star when serving rich meat dishes and game.

Moulin à Vent – of all the wine produced in the Beaujolais region, Moulin à Vent is expected to last the longest and taste most concentrated. Uniquely for the area, Moulin à Vent has been known to still be refreshing after some 5-6 years in the bottle. As you’d expect, red meats and good cheese should be on the table with it.

Régnié – this only joined the other nine Crus in 1988. It might be the newcomer, but the winemakers are no greenhorns. They add the supple structure of youth to violets and redcurrants in a cherry-red wine that’s simply top of the shop with cold meats.

Saint-Amour – there are more myths about the origins of the name Saint-Amour than there are Crus in Beaujolais. What’s in no doubt, however, is its flavourful, refined nature, ruby-red with the aromas of Kirsch and herbs. You may be unsure what sweetmeats are, but be sure this is the wine to drink with them. Chicken is a little more usual however.

Let’s not forget the Beaujolais-Villages and Beaujolais appellations which also represent high quality wines and are a great source of some real bargains:

Beaujolais-Villages – the 38 communes which produce these beautifully-light wines can be found amongst rolling granite hills. Cherry-red in colour, with red and black fruit aromas, these wines are well-balanced, easy on the palate and are brilliant with a wide variety of dishes.

Beaujolais – the wines in this appellation mainly come from vineyards in the south of the region. These aromatic wines, with their heady fruit flavours are made for sharing and year-round enjoyment.

Look out for Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages and the 10 Crus in major supermarkets and off-licences.

For more information, visit beaujolais.com.

*Cru literally means “named vineyard” and denotes a wine of greater quality.